I am not going to tell you how important it is to have classic motorcycle spare parts quality tires in good condition. Measurements, drawing, depth of it? All of this is essential. But just as important as that is to bring the right pressures and control them with a certain frequency. If not, there is no use of spending the money on new tires or motorcycles.
This issue greatly affects the behavior of your classic motorcycle spare parts. So much so that not only will it ruin the fun of riding a motorcycle, but it can also affect your safety significantly. For this reason, it is essential to monitor the tire pressure and do it correctly, as well as doing it regularly.
What happens if my tire is badly inflated?
A tire with the wrong pressure works badly. It is designed for a specific load, with inflation pressures to support that load predefined in its design. Most often, of course, the tire is under pressure. In this case, the central classic motorcycle spare parts of the tire, the one that is resting on the ground (tread), becomes larger and when the sidewall is tilted, it deforms more than it should.
Then you will notice the flapping of the motorcycle, it will move sideways when trying to enter a curve. At low speed, with a larger footprint and more friction against the ground, you will feel very heavy steering. If it is the rear tire that is loose, they may also appear flaky: the rear casing does not support the weight of the entire classic motorcycle spare parts, moving due to the lack of pressure and, in the end, moving the entire motorcycle.
In a serious case, if it has already been very deflated, the classic motorcycle spare parts will become difficult to control, and if you continue it is possible to slip (the tire comes off the rim), with the consequent practically inevitable accident.
It is no solution to spend your time swelling to avoid looking at the pressure every little bit. Wearing very swollen wheels is also a mistake. For starters, you narrow that footprint, which means less grip and a feeling of less stability. In the end, it is like carrying the motorcycle “on tiptoe.”
Sure, to a moderate point, you note that it even fits better in curves: it is more agile due to the less friction, the wheels with a more “triangular” profile But think that this is achieved because you have less rubber in contact with the ground, in a vehicle that already has little contact with the ground.
If you spend a lot, you can also reach the limits of the tire. With a little more, you can burst.And that “little more” can come from a bump or, simply, because with the temperature that it takes with its normal operation, the pressure increases. And blowing a tire while running is not a good thing, as you can imagine.
In either case, with a lot or with little pressure, you have other added problems. For starters, incorrect tire wear, which will decrease its useful life. If you go under pressure, it will wear down the sidewalls and warp the tire . A slightly inflated tire offers more resistance and that means more temperature, which will eventually deform it. Another effect is to increase the consumption of the classic motorcycle spare parts and even lose some of its performance: this greater friction is noticeable.
If you go too swollen, it will just wear the tread, in addition to deforming because it is hotter than it should, due to that excess pressure. You get to the same point by two ways. And neither of them interests you.
What is the correct tire pressure?
Do not make trouble and do not let them do it to you, neither in internet forums nor in bar talks: the correct pressure of the tires of your motorcycle is the one indicated by the manufacturer of classic motorcycle spare parts in the user book and, generally, in a sticker on the bike. They are usually on the swingarm. In scooters it is usually included in other areas and in some motorcycles it can be quite hidden. But in the user manual it is, for sure.
There is no general rule, although it is true that the same classic motorcycle spare parts styles tend to have similar wheels and, therefore, similar pressures. A large classic motorcycle spare parts have a rear pressure of 2.8 kg / cm2 more or less. But that more or less can be so great that we continue to recommend that you look at the indications of the classic motorcycle spare parts manufacturer.
You will see comments about raising or lowering the pressures for one use or another. This is, to say the least, delicate. On off road, with dirt or enduro bikes, you usually play with the type of tire you have and the type of ground on which you roll.
It is not the same many stones, driven into the ground, which require high pressure to avoid cuts with the edges that loose sand or very loose mud, where with less pressure the tire can be driven better. In trials, however, it tends to go with very low pressures (around 0.3 to 0.5 kg / cm2), but they are very special classic motorcycle spare parts of tires and that pressure is only used when you are already in the field.
A separate case is the circuit or very sporty driving . The circuit or the stresses on the tire increase the temperature of the tire. With this increase in temperature, logically, the pressure rises, so they adjust to lower pressures. If you are going to ride the circuit, but you have your normal street tires, maintain normal pressure, do a few laps, measure pressure again and readjust to what they should take. If you have special classic motorcycle spare parts of tires (slick or similar), consult your “wheel” for standard pressures on which to work.
When and how do I look at the pressure?
On when to look at the pressure, you have opinions of all tastes: every time you take the bike for an outing, every week, every 15 days and even up to two months I have read as recommended. And none of those recommendations convince. What seems more logical is that you are the one to calculate it, because you know your classic motorcycle spare parts.
There are classic motorcycle spare parts that lose pressure every few days and others that take months to lose a few grams. In principle, I would tell you that if you don’t notice anything unusual, do a check a week after new tires. It will tell you if you lose any air and how much. If you haven’t lost anything, check back 15 days later.
And if there are no losses either (rare, after three weeks), you can set periods of one month. It will also depend on how you use the bike. If you take it every day, check your pressures more often; if you take it once every two months, every time you take it. There is no fixed rule. But it is important to remember to look at it and make sure they are correct.
To look at the pressure, always follow one rule: the recommended pressures are always with a cold tire . A cold tire is considered to be one that has stopped for more than two hours or one with which you have traveled very few kilometers (less than 5) at moderate speed. If you have the need to look hot, calculate that the pressure gauge will be giving you an extra 0.3 kg / cm2.
That is, you will have to subtract 0.3kg / cm2 from the pressure it gives you to see if you are doing well with respect to the recommended pressure. But this system is an approximation: look at it cold as soon as you can.
The correct system to make sure is to always use a precision pressure gauge. It is a necessary expense: buy one, check it with one that is well-calibrated (those in tire shops usually are), and always use that one. Do not trust too much of the gas stations: there are those that are good and others that are not.
You can also check one of the nearest gas stations: compare the pressure that gives you when you are sure to bring them to the correct pressure and you already have the “correction factor” for that pressure gauge for a season.
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